Day 3 (South Coast)

We headed east toward Vík, about 125 km from Selfoss, with a full day of iconic stops ahead. Before setting off, we made another stop at GK Bakarí for more of their incredible bread (Slides 2–3).

Driving east along the Ring Road, we began to see waterfalls emerging from the cliffs—first one, then many (Slides 4–10). Some were named, others unnamed, but all cascaded from misty ledges, feeding the lush green slopes below. Each seemed to emerge out of nowhere, framed by moss-covered rock and misty air.

As we approached Vík, Iceland’s southernmost village, the volcanic landscape grew more dramatic (Slide 11). Our destination was the legendary Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach (Slides 12–42), known for its basalt columns, black sand, and deadly sneaker waves. We parked near the entrance (Slide 12) and enjoyed another picnic lunch of bread, cheese, and salami, this time with crashing waves as our backdrop. Rain showers passed through intermittently. The parking fee (about 1,000 ISK) included access to a restaurant and restrooms.

The beach didn’t disappoint. Towering basalt columns, crashing surf, and smooth black pebbles created a surreal atmosphere. We strolled along the beach, took photos of the geologic formations, and even spotted puffins nesting in the cliffs above (Slides 29–30). We met a friendly couple—geologists from the U.S.—who gave us a brief but fascinating lesson on the region’s volcanic geology. Back at the parking lot, we paused to admire the dramatic northern mountain view (Slide 34).

Continuing on, we followed a winding coastal road to the other end of the beach (Slides 35–37), where we could see both Kirkjufjara Beach (Slide 40) and Reynisfjara from the same vantage point. From there, we took a detour through lava fields and craters (Slides 42–45), circling one extinct volcano with our trusty rental car MOZ, the Hyundai i10, posing in front (Slides 44–45).

Next, we made our way toward the edge of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, Iceland’s fourth-largest glacier (Slides 46–53). The terrain shifted again—this time to a moonscape of gray ash and loose volcanic rock (Slide 46). When the first view of the glacier appeared (Slide 47), it took our breath away: blue-tinged ice tucked beneath dark cliffs. The hike to the viewing area was about a mile. There was a cool wind, intermittent rain, and while parking was free, the restrooms cost 500 ISK—though the turnstiles weren’t working, and no one seemed to be paying. Many visitors were suited up for guided glacier tours, complete with hard hats and climbing gear.

On our return drive west toward Selfoss, we made two unforgettable waterfall stops. First, the mighty Skógafoss (Slides 55–59), where water plummets 60 meters into a thundering basin. The tourist crowds made it difficult to get close, and the spray was intense.

A short drive later brought us to Seljalandsfoss (Slides 60–63), the famous waterfall you can walk behind. The trail was slippery, and the spray relentless, but the view from behind the cascade was incredible. We got a little wet but ran the gauntlet for the full experience.

By evening, we returned to Selfoss, tired and hungry. We grabbed food from a local hot dog stand, which served surprisingly delicious Icelandic hot dogs, made mostly from lamb. They absolutely lived up to the hype. We wrapped up the day with some reading at the cabin (Slide 64) and watched an Australian mini-series on Netflix.